We've been out of internet range for a few days while we were in Cluny, so just a brief update on our trip there. Stopped in Tournous to look at a cathedral, St. Philibert. Very unusual, with a labyrinthine crypt underneath the entire knave. Lunch there (you eat very leisurely in France: one course at a time. And you may not ask for coffee until after dessert is finished!) So after about 2.5 hrs, we headed to Cluny.
Cluny Abbey is in ruins, and pretty much takes up the whole village, meaning shops, hotels, restaurants, etc. are butted right up against it. In fact, our hotel was once a wing of the abbey. It is a beautiful little town, with narrow, winding streets. Very picturesque, with many boulangeries, patisseries, and chocolatiers! Now we know what chocolate eclair REALLY tastes like!
Of course, I know most of you are waiting to hear about Taize. We worshiped there Friday night, Saturday night, and Sunday morning, then had a briefing with Brother John (from Philadelphia) who has been at Taize for 35 years!
First I need to tell you about the thousands of young people who come to Taize from all over Europe, and probably the world. They stay for a week, in tents, and have Bible study, small groups, and also have to work (kitchen, cleaning, etc.). They are mainly 19-25 years old. A lot of locals and tourists also attend the worship services.
The worship space is in a huge concrete building that holds at least a couple of thousand. The center floor is divided into 3 parts, monks in the center, and other worshipers on the sides. You sit on the floor in this area, or on small slanted benches that you put under your bottom and tuck your feet underneath. Surprisingly comfortable! Other seating is on the concrete steps on one side, or wooden benches on the same side. We tried them all, and I actually liked the floor best!
We got there early for good seats, and the nighttime services started at 8:30, so about 8:10, people start streaming in: young people, old people, families, babies, all different nationalities. It's unbelievable! In silence. Even more unbelievable! The music playing was surprising: classical strings. Beautiful and peaceful. About 8:20, the monks enter from the front, quite randomly, in twos or threes or singly, and all sit in the center section - on the floor or the stools, or some older ones sit on chairs. There are about 100 monks there now.
Each weekend, they celebrate the Triduum (did I spell that right?). So Friday night was Prayer Around the Cross. We sang many Taize songs (they publish a new book each year); most I did not know. You sing them in whatever language they are printed - some are English. At the end of the service, a cross is placed in the center of the middle part, and people line up to go up to the cross, kneel, and put their forehead on the cross, and pray for a short time, then get up and someone else takes their place. There is a very long wait for this, and none of us did it. It's enough to sing Taize and watch all of these young people go to the cross. Very moving.
On Saturday night was the Service of Light. Pretty much same routine, except about halfway through, two children walk forward with a monk, light slim footlong candles from the Christ candle, and then proceed to spread the light to everyone (you are given a candle when you enter the sanctuary). This is a beautiful sight. No photos allowed in worship, but I bought postcards depicting this.
Sunday morning was the Resurrection, and we had communion. So that you know which songs to sing, an electronic board shows the number of the page. A monk accompanies on a keyboard, and there is a lot of cantoring. In all the services, their is scripture, silence, prayer, singing. Communion was by intinction - white wine and wafers.
When the monks leave at the end of the service, two small children always lead them. Brother Roger started this tradition. We visited his gravesite in the small village of Taize. It has a flower garden on top of it!
On Sunday, we stayed for lunch, which is very plain, but very filling. You stand in line, get a tray, a water bowl, a bowl, and utensil. Delicious herbed mashed potatoes, an orange, a baguette, cream cheese, boiled egg or salami, water and a packaged brownie. You sit on low benches (no tables) to eat.
The bookstore was a delight, but unfortunately my suitcases are already complaining! I did manage a few items, though.
Today we drove through Beaune, visited the Hotel Dieu, a medieval hospice, had lunch, and came on to Dijon in the pouring rain.
We will have wifi the next 3 days, so we'll chat again! Dinner time; photos tomorrow.
Cluny Abbey is in ruins, and pretty much takes up the whole village, meaning shops, hotels, restaurants, etc. are butted right up against it. In fact, our hotel was once a wing of the abbey. It is a beautiful little town, with narrow, winding streets. Very picturesque, with many boulangeries, patisseries, and chocolatiers! Now we know what chocolate eclair REALLY tastes like!
Of course, I know most of you are waiting to hear about Taize. We worshiped there Friday night, Saturday night, and Sunday morning, then had a briefing with Brother John (from Philadelphia) who has been at Taize for 35 years!
First I need to tell you about the thousands of young people who come to Taize from all over Europe, and probably the world. They stay for a week, in tents, and have Bible study, small groups, and also have to work (kitchen, cleaning, etc.). They are mainly 19-25 years old. A lot of locals and tourists also attend the worship services.
The worship space is in a huge concrete building that holds at least a couple of thousand. The center floor is divided into 3 parts, monks in the center, and other worshipers on the sides. You sit on the floor in this area, or on small slanted benches that you put under your bottom and tuck your feet underneath. Surprisingly comfortable! Other seating is on the concrete steps on one side, or wooden benches on the same side. We tried them all, and I actually liked the floor best!
We got there early for good seats, and the nighttime services started at 8:30, so about 8:10, people start streaming in: young people, old people, families, babies, all different nationalities. It's unbelievable! In silence. Even more unbelievable! The music playing was surprising: classical strings. Beautiful and peaceful. About 8:20, the monks enter from the front, quite randomly, in twos or threes or singly, and all sit in the center section - on the floor or the stools, or some older ones sit on chairs. There are about 100 monks there now.
Each weekend, they celebrate the Triduum (did I spell that right?). So Friday night was Prayer Around the Cross. We sang many Taize songs (they publish a new book each year); most I did not know. You sing them in whatever language they are printed - some are English. At the end of the service, a cross is placed in the center of the middle part, and people line up to go up to the cross, kneel, and put their forehead on the cross, and pray for a short time, then get up and someone else takes their place. There is a very long wait for this, and none of us did it. It's enough to sing Taize and watch all of these young people go to the cross. Very moving.
On Saturday night was the Service of Light. Pretty much same routine, except about halfway through, two children walk forward with a monk, light slim footlong candles from the Christ candle, and then proceed to spread the light to everyone (you are given a candle when you enter the sanctuary). This is a beautiful sight. No photos allowed in worship, but I bought postcards depicting this.
Sunday morning was the Resurrection, and we had communion. So that you know which songs to sing, an electronic board shows the number of the page. A monk accompanies on a keyboard, and there is a lot of cantoring. In all the services, their is scripture, silence, prayer, singing. Communion was by intinction - white wine and wafers.
When the monks leave at the end of the service, two small children always lead them. Brother Roger started this tradition. We visited his gravesite in the small village of Taize. It has a flower garden on top of it!
On Sunday, we stayed for lunch, which is very plain, but very filling. You stand in line, get a tray, a water bowl, a bowl, and utensil. Delicious herbed mashed potatoes, an orange, a baguette, cream cheese, boiled egg or salami, water and a packaged brownie. You sit on low benches (no tables) to eat.
The bookstore was a delight, but unfortunately my suitcases are already complaining! I did manage a few items, though.
Today we drove through Beaune, visited the Hotel Dieu, a medieval hospice, had lunch, and came on to Dijon in the pouring rain.
We will have wifi the next 3 days, so we'll chat again! Dinner time; photos tomorrow.
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