Wednesday, June 17, 2009

More Dijon, S'il Vous Plait

Today we leave for Chartres, where we will be staying basically (tres basically) in a monk's dormitory. They do have restrooms, but no internet so we will be practicing a monk's silence as well. Remember to click on the photos for more details.









Yesterday, we met with our guide Sherry again, and she took us to the Well of Moses, a sculpture by Claus Sluter, created in the 14th century. It is an amazing work of art, and the details are exquisite. It consists of a hexagonal base, with six prophets (Moses, Isaiah, Zechariah, Daniel, Jeremiah and David) encircling it. Each is garbed in a way particular to his calling or life, and each holds a scroll that bears a reference to the (now missing) art at the top of the pedestal: the crucifixion scene, with Mary Magdalene at the foot of the cross. Quite unusual angels depicting various emotions are spaced above and between the prophet statues. The sculpture (and actual well) are enclosed within a protective cupola, and have been since their creation. It is on the site of an ancient Carthusian monastery, just on the outskirts of Dijon.

Dijon has about 150,000 people, and is a vibrant, beautiful city. We have very much enjoyed our stay here and encourage making this a part of your trip to France if you have the opportunity.

After lunch in a delightful interior courtyard garden yesterday, we had a chocolat tasting at Carbillet Chocolat. Father and son took us to their cellar, and led us through the acquiring of their chocolate, its being blended to their own special recipe, and we tasted white chocolate, 2 levels of milk chocolate, about 5 levels of dark chocolate, and three finished products. Delicieux! Then we tasted cassis, which is the liqueur made from black currants. Very good! I have not posted chocolat photos on this part; it would hardly be fair to those of you are consigned to the US offerings of Hershey and Nestle.

After a rest, we were privileged to be the guests of our guides friends, Anne and Paul Blagny, who live in a 16th/17th century home that has been in his family for five generations. When you enter the large streetside door, an ancient world unfolds. You step into a large courtyard garden (where they teach tango!). Ancient statues and cobbled paving, roses, old walls and fixtures give you the feeling of stepping back in time.




Paul is an avocat (lawyer), and Anne is a documentary film maker. We purchased her dvd of Fontenay, where we toured last week. After touring the cellar (where there is a remnant of a 3rd century Roman rampart wall!), we were invited into the library and had kir (cherry liqueur), violette water or cassis, olives, pretzels, hazelnuts, almonds and pate choux (small cheese puffed pastries).




The library is a marvel, and Jean-Philippe Rameau, composer, played here weekly in the 18th century. Artwork and books abound, with floor to ceiling windows. It is a beautiful place. The parquet wood floors are 16th century.




Dinner was in another room, also lovely, with salmon salad, chicken and rice, and amandine cake, cake maison, and vanilla custard. Another delicious meal in France! We ate from Anne's grandmother's china, and the crystal chandelier is identical to one that hung in the home of George Sand! Seated with Joan Currey are Norm and Mary Anne Ravizza and a little bit of Bobby.



Sherry's daughter, Eliza, joined us. She is a student who will be doing her master's in New York. She grew up in France, and her English and French are impeccable.

We were all in awe of dining in this historic home, with its beautiful paintings, sculptures, furnishings and warm French hospitality.

Today we head for Chartres (about 200 miles) and we will add more to the blog when we are in Paris (from Saturday until we return to the US on the 24th). Au revoir for now.

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