Thursday, June 18. After a 200 mile journey from Dijon, Chartres Cathedral loomed into view from miles away. The front portal was clearly brighter than the towers and surrounding stone because they have undertaken a lengthy laser cleaning to bring the stone back to its original whiteness. Of course, it wasn't white for long, because it was actually painted, as were all of the interior and exterior surfaces and sculptures.
Our masterful drivers threaded us through tiny, tiny streets - the walls were within inches of our side doors - to the St. Yves Hotel (read hostelry). These were previously used as monk cells. Our rooms were miniscule, but very clean. White walls and blue striped bedspreads brightened the room, and a compact bathroom similar to what you would have on a cruise ship or airplane took up a corner of the small room. The high arched window (ours was a dormer) had a broad sill. I climbed on the bed and up onto the sill to see what lay below: a wondrous view of the city of Chartres, the river Eure, a grass maze (not a labyrinth), and many church steeples.
We walked around the gigantic cathedral: its proportions are overwhelming. The exterior is heavily sculpted with all manner of human and saintly figures, flowers, vines, animals, etc. There is a story in every square inch of it!
Dinner was at a wonderful small creperie. I had scallops and shrimp in my crepe. For dessert, we shared ligeiose (or something like that): an ice cream sundae composed primarily of ice cream that seemed to be solidified fudge, and topped with swirls of whipped cream (chantilly, they call it). Mmmmmmm bon!
Friday, June 19. After breakfast at St. Yves (yogurt, cheese, ham, croissants, juice, coffee) we hurried over to walk the labyrinth, but they were just starting mass, so it was closed. We came back 45 minutes later and the chairs were removed from the labyrinth, and we (and about 100 others!) began our walk. It took me about 25 minutes to reach the center (about 1000 steps), and just as I got to the center, a man rushed from the outside directly into the center, and stood there with his arms uplifted, his legs apart, holding a bouquet of flowers, and looking up. And he stood there for a very long time. Needless to say, I saw my chance at the center was nonexistent, so I walked around the edges of it, and then began my return to the outside. We later saw this man in various parts of town, begging and talking to himself. He was totally clean-shaven and respectable looking, and is probably a fixture in Chartres. His need for the center of the labyrinth most certainly outweighs mine.
After we were done there, we went off to explore the cathedral. Mary's birthing gown is the relic that inspired the building of the cathedral, and it is on display in its own chapel. This cathedral was built in the 12th century, and burned down, but the gown was miraculously preserved, thus the rebuilding on a grand scale resurrected the cathedral in about 30 years! Many, many pilgrims come here from all over.
We had a tour with the (in)famous guide Malcom Miller, who has been at Chartres for 50 years! He has no use for the labyrinth, however. He told us of a young couple he had seen a few days ago bring their newborn to the center of the labyrinth and pray. He said, "I have no idea what people are doing when they go to the labyrinth. It doesn't do anything for me."
In the afternoon, we toured a stained glass museum where they clean and repair some of the cathedral windows, and also offer tours and workshops for schoolchildren. A contemporary glass exhibition was on display on the lower level.
Dinner was unusual: Bobby and I had stingray! Of course, we weren't aware of that when we ordered it, but it was okay, just a bland whitefish.
At this time of year, Chartres holds a Lumiere, exterior illuminations of the cathedral and other buildings in town. It starts about 10:30, just as it gets dark, and is quite interesting. They project largescale artistic designs on the buildings. It is supposed to represent the way the cathedrals used to be painted in bright colors. There is a musical recording played, but it's not really coordinated with the art. So, although it was somewhat interesting, I guess we are just used to Disneyesque light displays.
Saturday, June 20. After breakfast, we were free to explore once again. The Saturday markets were open: fresh cheeses, veggies, fruits, meats, flowers, etc. The townspeople are out in full force with their little shopping carts and market baskets. We decided to be virtuous and just buy some fruit to have for our lunch, since we have been overdosing on goodies everyday.
And then on our way back to St. Yves, we discovered the most wonderful boulangerie and patisserie, so we noted its location so that we could return after our worship at 11:00 a.m. So much for virtuosity. The 2 bananas and apple sit here by my computer as I type. Several of the others went with us for lunch, and we had wonderful quiches and pastries. Oh, well, it's back to yogurt and turkey next week.
At 11:00, we met in the small St. Yves chapel, and Jeffrey and Tom led us in a communion service. We used bread from breakfast, and wine from a small bottle we had bought on our shopping adventures. In the afternoon, we drove about 60 miles back to Paris.
Tomorrow: a few more days in Paris.
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